Whelping

Whelping is defined as ‘the act of birthing puppies’. Bitches are in whelp for about 63 days. This figure can vary and does vary normally depending on how big the litter is. If the litter is small then they could be several days late however if it is a big litter then she may whelp three to four days early.
The pregnancy should be confirmed by a vet 3-4 weeks after the mating date. The vet will be able to help and advise on the best pregnancy plan to follow and may do ultrasounds to check on the pups. Your bitch’s personality may change slightly after conceiving but it is important to carry on the same. Slightly change her exercise and quantity of food given about half way through. Make changes gradually and follow advice from your vet.

Preparing your whelping area

Preparing the whelping area should be done well in advance. Move your bitch into this area half way through the pregnancy so that she can get used to the new space. The area should be warm, enclosed and large enough for your bitch to spread out. If you normally keep your dog inside make sure that she stays indoors for the pregnancy, she is already going through a difficult and distressing time and will not want to be separated from you too. A spare box also needs to be prepared, e.g. a clean washing basket lined with clean blankets with a hot water bottle inside to provide warmth. The pups will be placed in here when the bitch starts whelping again. It is also a handy area to put the pups in when cleaning the whelping box.

If you are keeping the bitch and her litter outside then make sure that there is a safe mode of heating, e.g. a heat lamp. Puppies cannot regulate their own body temperature for about a week after they are born so it is essential that they are kept warm. As puppies will not open their eyes for a few weeks after being born, unnatural light should be kept to minimum so that the puppies can get accustomed slowly. It is also recommended to have a baby monitor. This is so that you can hear the bitch and pups when you are in the house, this is very important as you will need to hear when the bitch goes into labour and you may be needed to tend to the little ones.

Warm blankets and rugs can be used but they will require thorough washing and drying after use. The most ideal form of bedding for your whelping area would be newspaper. This is easy to clean as you can scoop it up and throw it away. Beware; the area is likely to get extremely messy!

Make sure that you record all your birthing information. Have a pen and paper to hand and record all birthing information down including order of birth. A good tip is to tie a different coloured loose piece of ribbon around each pup and then it is much easier to identify the order they were born in. Also note the weight of each puppy, any birthing problems encountered and the sex of the puppies. It may also be handy to have a camera ready to take pictures of the pups to help with identifying them at a later date.

See below for our specially prepared whelping checklist to help you get ready for your new arrivals.

Prior to giving birth

Your bitch will become restless and may become swollen and produce a small discharge just before she is about to give birth. Take her temperature at this time. 38-39 Degrees Centigrade (101-102 degrees Fahrenheit) is normal, but a sudden drop to 37-38 Degrees Centigrade (97-99 degrees Fahrenheit) is a sign that labour is imminent.

It is vital that if your dog is late by three days that you contact your vet immediately.

It is imperative that you have a torch to hand as it has been known for a bitch to ‘drop a puppy’ when you think she is going to the toilet. This is obviously very important at night times. It is advised that you keep her on a lead and keep a very close eye on her at all times.

If there is a problem with the birth then call your vet immediately as birthing complications can be fatal. If you are likely to have to take your bitch and her litter to the vet then prepare your car. You will need a big box to put in the car which resembles the whelping box. This should contain newspaper, blankets etc to keep them warm or in case she gives birth en-route to the vets.

During Labour

The bitch should not be left during this stage. She will be distressed and may pant, shake and even vomit. This stage can last from around 4 hours through to about 36 hours so you are in it for the long haul! In the second stage of labour the bitch will start to strain and pant heavily in between contractions. You can walk her around on a lead if she looks like she wants to go outside but keep a close eye on her!

Once the puppy comes down into the pelvic area your dog will start to push. (If she is pushing for more than 2 hours and no puppy has appeared ring your vet).
First of all the water sac will appear and break, followed very shortly by a puppy then the placenta will appear. You can pull gently on the umbilical cord but do not be alarmed if your bitch wants to bite it herself. Make sure that there are the same number of placentas as there are puppies. If they are not then ring your vet. Your bitch may want to eat the placenta so do not be alarmed and let her do this. Offer your bitch a drink between each puppy being born.

It is important to let the dog bond with the puppies as much as possible so whilst she is resting between each puppy being born then leave her to it unless of course there is a problem with the breathing etc in which case you must intervene and call the vet. Once labour starts up again move the puppy into the second prepared whelping box (washing basket).

The time between each of the births does vary considerably, this can be from minutes to hours but the second, third, and so on puppies should come within 30 minutes of each other. If she is struggling call your vet.

The third stage of the labour process is the expulsion of the afterbirth. This can be born with each puppy or it may come out with subsequent puppies. However, make sure you cut the umbilical cord with each puppy.

Cutting the umbilical cord

Cutting the umbilical cord is a crucial stage when the pups are born. Dip two pieces of cotton into antiseptic solution. Tie them around the umbilical cord an inch apart with the first piece about two inches away from the puppy. Use very sharp scissors to cut through the cord in between the two pieces of cotton.
Dispose of the placenta and then dip cotton wool in the antiseptic solution and gently clean the part of the cord that is still attached to the puppy. This will dry and drop off on its own within a few days.

DO NOT…
• Try to pull the cord away from the puppy as this can cause an umbilical hernia
• Attempt to cut the cord without first tying it off as this will cause excessive blood loss

Checking the newborn litter

You must check each puppy as it is born to make sure that it is breathing properly. If it isn’t then stay calm and follow these simple steps:

• Remove water sac from the puppies nose and mouth and hold him upside down to help to clear the fluid.
• Hold puppy at arms length with his nose away from you and swing him to and fro whilst supporting his head. The gravity should draw out the fluid.
• Rub vigorously with a clean warm towel to get the newborn warm and dry. This can help stimulate breathing. The puppies should make a ‘squeaking’ noise.
• Clear the puppies’ airways with a bulb syringe.
• Carry on with these tips for about fifteen minutes but if he isn’t breathing on his own after this time he is unlikely to.

You must now check every puppy for any deformities and weigh the puppy. Note all this information down. As mentioned previously mark the puppies in different coloured ribbons and/or take photos of the individual puppies to distinguish between each of them. Note, that a Polaroid camera is ideal for this situation.

The puppies can then all be reunited with their mother. Try and encourage the puppies to feed as the colostrum carries vital antibodies to boost each of the puppies immune systems. Do not panic if they will not feed straight away, they have been through a stressful ordeal but encourage them after a couple of hours.

Once the bitch has given birth to all her puppies she will calm and her breathing will become slower. Let her drink and go to the toilet (whilst on a lead) and then let her rest. This is the best time to encourage the puppies to ‘latch on’ as the bitch is tired and will not fuss or put up much of a fight at this time. Check that the puppies are comfortable with the mother before leaving them alone.

Caesarean

If your bitch has had complications through pregnancy or has had problems during labour your vet may have to perform a caesarean. The bitch will have a general anaesthetic and unfortunately some of this will pass onto the unborn puppies. Therefore, do not be alarmed as they may be more lethargic and not as active as you would imagine. You need to try and get the puppies to suckle as soon as possible to encourage the bonding process. Follow your vets instructions on post-op care and be sure to keep an eye on the bitch’s wound to make sure that it is healing correctly.

After labour

Make sure that you let your bitch drink lots of water. A good first meal is chicken soup with some rice. It is best for her to eat this on her own without the distractions of the puppies. You need to try and encourage your bitch to go outside and go to the toilet. She may be reluctant to leave her newborn litter so try and encourage her by carrying a pup out with her. If you do carry a pup outside keep it warm and dry. The bitch will most probably clean herself and her pups but if she is too tired and doesn’t mind you interfering then you can help by using a clean, wet cloth.

Vet

The vet will have to see the mother and the new litter within a few hours of them being born to check their health. This is when your bitch may receive a vaccination of oxytocin. This is a hormone which will help the uterus to contract down and expel its contents. Make sure that you ring the vet as soon as the mother has given birth to all her pups so that the vet has plenty of warning to get over to you.

Why not print out our whelping area checklist to prepare for your new arrivals?

• Whelping box

• Spare whelping box

• Bedding – newspaper/blankets/towels etc

• Old clean towels – needed to dry each of the pups when they are born

• Scales – to weigh the newborns as soon as they are delivered

• Thermometer

• Scissors – to cut umbilical cord

• Latex Gloves

• Reel of cotton – used to tie off umbilical cord before cutting

• Antiseptic solution – check with your vet which one to keep but use this to clean around the umbilical cord once cut and tied

• Bulb Syringe – to clear the puppy’s airways if needed

• Torch – your bitch will need to urinate whilst whelping. This may be at night and it is essential you make sure she doesn’t drop a pup outside

• Telephone – to call the vet or a friend if needed

• Pen and paper

If your bitch is outside:

• Heat lamp

• Baby monitor